Archive for the 'Technique' Category Page 2 of 4



having fun with color

I love cross-processed film. I hate waiting and paying for it. So, I’ve been working on recreating some cross-processed looks in Lightroom using existing presets as examples. Originally, I was only playing with white balance tweaks and HSL adjustments, but I was never really happy with the results. Then I figured out how to use split toning to get the looks I wanted (yeah, I’m a little slow sometimes…), and now I’m happy.

To test out the new presets, I pulled some images from a recent self-portrait shoot and went to town with the processing. The base lighting is the same in all images — Nikon SB-600 at full power with a CTO gel at camera left, sun at camera right.

Here’s what the original colors looked like:

just another sunset jump split at the dock

And here are three variations on the cross-processed look I’ve been working on:

lift

my magazine cover shot

editorializing myself

Overall, I’m pretty happy with how they turned out. I still need to do some tweaking to find a good starting point for the preset(s), but I’m starting to get the colors and tones that I want. Someday, I might even share those presets. :)

going airborne on white

kickin' it on white

The master bedroom in my apartment is empty at the moment, so I decided to take advantage of the extra space to do more white background lighting practice. My goal for the session was to get a clean white background and capture a full-body shot in the air without using an actual seamless background and large studio space (neither of which I have at the moment).

Here’s the setup I used:

the bedroom white wall setup

To illuminate the wall, I used 2 Nikon SB-600s cranked up to 1/2 power. I attached a couple of Honl Speed Gobos to prevent the strobes from flaring into the lens (a Sigma 10-20mm ultra wide-angle lens that can pick up *anything*). The main light is a Vivitar 285HV at 1/4 power in a shoot-through umbrella. The big red laundry bin in the middle is where I was standing for the shots.

The exposure on the two jumps featured in this post was 1/250th sec at f/8 at ISO 400. Why ISO 400 when I have so much light and white walls that bounce that light? I forgot that I had shifted the custom studio lighting preset on my D300 from ISO 200 to 400 during a previous session. Oops!

i can levitate

Overall, I’m happy with how the images turned out. I feel like I got a bit too much spill from the background lights, but that’s mostly because I don’t have a whole lot of space to work with. I’m also seriously considering getting a softbox (possibly the Westcott Apollo 50″) for my main light, so I can restrict light even more in such a tight shooting area. Still, I like the final results from my 30 minutes of playing around.

I’ve gotta send out props to Zach Arias and David Hobby for always being so awesome about sharing their photography and lighting knowledge with the world. I’ve learned so much about lighting from reading their blogs and seeing their work. I’ve already attended a Strobist workshop and hung out with David a few times. One of these days I’ll get to a OneLight Workshop with Zack.

goodies from honl photo

I’ve been having a lot of fun lately using only a single strobe and doing minimal lighting of subjects on black backgrounds. It’s a much different look than what I used to do when I first started with off-camera lighting (i.e. illuminate *everything*), and it’s a bit more challenging and interesting to limit light to specific elements in the image.

For the longest time, shoot-through umbrellas were my main light modifiers. They’re great for soft light, but light spillage is very tough to manage. To make life easier on me, I purchased a few goodies from Honl Photo: a 1/8 Speed Grid, a couple of Speed Gobos, and Speed Straps for mounting the grid and gobos to my flashes.

Here is a shot I did using a single SB-600 with the speed grid attached:

in limbo

The flash is about 3 feet above my head and just out of frame at camera left. It’s aimed down at my face, and works a lot like a focused spotlight. This was shot next to my red wall, and, if I had used an umbrella, there would have been a lot of spillage behind me.

Here is a shot I did using two gobos to barndoor a SB-600:

breathe

The barndoored SB-600 is about 4′ directly to the right of me. What you can’t see here is I’m about 1.5′ in front of my red wall. The gobos blocked any light from hitting the wall and flaring into my 85mm lens (there was a bit of flare with a bare flash).

So far, I’m having a lot of fun with my new light modifiers. Yes, I could’ve made my own grid and gobos for far less than I paid for the Honl versions. However, I’m lazy and would rather pay for something that is well-made than have the ones I make look like crap and fall apart after one session. Also, the Honl accessories are very compact and will easily slide into my lighting bag.

Now I just need to get a boom, so I can put lights directly above my subjects. :)

it’s all black in back

it weighs heavily upon me

I’ve been on a one-light kick lately and really loving working with low-key, limited light shots, especially on black backgrounds. The challenge for me, of course, is that I don’t actually have a black background at my displosal. I typically shoot in front of either the red wall in the studio (a.k.a. second bedroom) or the white wall in the dining room or in open spaces at parks, so my only option is to kill the ambient light with proper exposure and then introduce light sources as needed.

Getting a pure black background is pretty easy to do and really more of a logistical exercise than anything else. I need to make sure I have enough separation between the subject and the wall so that my main light source does not contaminate the background. Open spaces are easier, obviously, since there isn’t a back wall at all. Working inside my apartment is a bit more challenging, but I can do it.

One of the best things about shooting for a black background is that it is very easy to rearrange the composition of the image as needed. As long as I don’t get too much light spill on the background and I don’t have any major highlights overlapping onto the main subject (all of which can be removed in Photoshop), I can fill my source photo with my subject and then play with the negative space as needed.

Take the image at the top of this post for example. It’s pretty clear that I shot it with a single soft light source (Nikon SB-600 at 1/8 power in a 43″ white shoot-through umbrella) up high and to the right of the frame. Knocking out the background is also pretty straightforward by shooting at f/11 and 1/250 sec at ISO 200. What isn’t readily obvious is all that black space on the left half of the image was added in Photoshop.

Here’s what the original framing of the photo looks like:

day 43 - before processing

On the left is the image straight out of camera. That’s the general look I was aiming for. There’s a bit of highlight on my hair to give it some form (at least, it’s visible on my calibrated display) and really no visible light contamination on the background.

On the right is the same image with some Lightroom tweaks (Exposure +2.0, Blacks 0, Brightness +100) to show the background. As you can see, I was shooting near my red wall and not even carefully composing for the background. I knew I was going to kill all ambient, so all I was concerned with was my distance from the wall. As long as I was far enough away from it, I would get no light spillage from my umbrella’d speedlight. Shooting at f/11 and 1/8 power in a shoot-through gave me really quick light fall-off.

For the final shot, I did some exposure and color adjustments in Lightroom, then I went into Photoshop to do a few more fine-tuned tweaks and then expanded the canvas to create more black space. The main reason for redoing the composition in Photoshop is I don’t have a gigantic studio to shoot at the composition I want. Plus, it’s easier to just focus on the main subject (my mug) and then deal with the rest of the image later (I used this same process with my “in a dark place” shot from last week).

Turns out that Zach Arias does the same thing, although he does explain more of the technical reasons for it, and his images are way cooler than mine. I’m not smart enough to think things through that much. I just felt my images could use more negative space, but I was too lazy to reshoot the good frames with the proper composition. Easier to fix it in post. :)